Post by siren on Aug 29, 2013 22:16:51 GMT -5
It has distressed me how few Bele people I've come across know about proper leather care, so I thought everyone might benefit from a quick guide!
Being an equestrian, I have a lot of experience cleaning, maintaining, restoring, conditioning, and fixing leather. I also have experience removing finishes, water proofing, maintaining suede, and a little bit of experience dying. I also might be able to help if anyone has questions about varieties of leather.
Start with some basics...
Leather is not meant to be exposed to a lot of water/moisture without the proper treatment to protect its pores and underside. Obviously it will get wet/damp/sweaty/etc from time to time. Especially our armor. It's okay. Let it dry before you store it. Suede should be brushed to restore its texture (old soft toothbrush works if you don't have access to a buff brush). If leather gets completely drenched, you may have to aid it (do NOT use heat) by toweling excess water. If the drenched piece is meant to be fitted (a glove, for example), you might want to wear it while it dries so it will keep its shape and fit. Note, that's a really handy way to mould leather or help gloves/shoes fit or stretch.
Leather NEEDS conditioning once in a while, or exposure to air, dust, dirt, and general use will dry it out. It'll lose suppleness and eventually the surface will crack. Once leather cracks, there's no way to fix the crack. Dead, dried skin does not heal!
In order to condition leather, you need to clean leather. (How is the leather going to absorb the oil/conditioner if the pores are filled with your sweat and grime?) A toothbrush to remove excess dry dirt, and a cloth dampened with water can work, but if you're investing hundreds in your leather goods, why not invest 20 bucks on something to clean and condition it. I've been cleaning three saddles, numerous bridles, girths, boots, half-chaps, bags, and misc. items for *years* and I've still on my second tin of leather soap, and my first quart of oil.
Suede! Suede can't use soap. There are some suede-specific soaps out there, but they tend to be expensive, and I don't know many equestrians who have liked the resulting texture from it. You aren't likely to either. Similarly, suede can't really be conditioned--though due to its nature, suede remains very supple through its lifetime if treated nicely. Suede in particular should not be exposed to harsh weather conditions. This in particular is why I personally think suede boots are the dumbest things anyone can buy. Yes, eventually it will be worn smooth, but in the meantime you can't weatherproof it, clean it beyond a damp brush. If your suede does get wet, use a soft toothbrush or buff brush to return its texture as soon as its dry or nearly-dry. Suede that gets drenched or significantly wet will never be the same in terms of texture or suppleness. (If anyone is interested, also make sure to avoid suede if you're using it in a manner where it will be rubbing against smooth or grained leather; the texture will rub off and leave a weird spackle pattern on your leather. Trust me. My nice dressage saddle can tell you a woeful tale.)
Oddly enough, cleaning and conditioning leather is not like your hair--you can clean/condition your leather goods too frequently. Overly-cleaned leather, no matter how well it is conditioned, will often become overly hard or overly supple (depending on the type of leather and its use), dried out, more susceptible to dirt buildup, and cracking. However, if you are getting your leather goods sweaty, for instance, it should ALWAYS be wiped down with a dry or very lightly-dampened cloth.
__________________________________
Cleaning for smooth or grained leathers:
The most basic cleaning supplies are cheap and easy to buy. The best tools are:
1) An old toothbrush for use on soles, metal fittings/hardware, stitching, and to scrub in holes.
2) A cheap soft sponge. The smaller the "pores" of the sponge, the better. Use dampened.
3) Toothpicks, for inserting into holes and hardware to remove any built-up grime.
4) A swatch or two of fleece or cotton fabric for buffing, polishing, and applying oil/conditioner. I keep a dedicated dry one for buffing and polishing, and one for use with my oil.
I fully recommend Fiebing Saddle Soap (http://www.doversaddlery.com/fiebing's-saddle-soap/p/X1-3122/) -- It comes as a paste-like cream in a tin. Kiwi brand makes a similar product. This type product should be applied with a dampened sponge or cloth and rubbed into the leather. Lather isn't necessary (lather often leaves a dirt film). Buff/polish when done. Can be bought at most/any shoe repair stores, tack stores, Mounds (in the horse section), Farm & Fleet (in the horse section), and Co-op feed stores (horse section), or of course, online. Online or in tack stores there are a ton of brands with similar products. Not all of them are good, so if you buy a different brand, I suggest looking at reviews to know how well it cleans, if it dries leather out, and especially if it leaves any residue.
Fiebings also makes a glycerine bar soap which I also rather like. (http://www.doversaddlery.com/glycerine-soap-bar/p/X1-3107/) I use it for my more heavily soiled tack items. Keep it in a dedicated sandwhich keeper for easy use and to prevent it drying out. This type product should be applied with a slightly more-damp sponge or cloth in multiple "sweeps," rinsing and wringing the sponge/cloth each time. Lather is good, but not a heavy lather (if it's like the lather of your shampoo you're using too much), just make sure to wipe it before applying more soap if you need it. Can be bought at most shoe repair stores, tack stores, Mounds (in the horse section), Farm & Fleet (in the horse section), and Co-op feed stores (horse section), or of course, online.
The only liquid soap I recommend using is Stubben brand's Hamanol PH-Balanced Soap. (http://www.doversaddlery.com/st%C3%BCbben-ph-balanced-soap/p/X1-3153/) The reason is because it's PH-balanced. Liquid soaps, because they're mixed right into a small bucket of water, tend to dry leather out more because you're applying more water to the leather. This liquid soap has not done that to anything I've used it on, and does not leave any residue (many others leave a tacky feeling). It is more expensive than the soaps listed above. Unless you have a nice tack store nearby, you'll likely have to buy this online.
Stay away from cleaning-and-conditioning-in-one products. It's like the whole shampoo-and-conditioner-in-one thing. Soaps and conditioners do two very different things. It'll either clean well or condition well and give the illusion of clean.
Also stay away from leather wipes. They attract dust and dirt like nothing else and only do a surface clean. Unless you're a dressage rider who needs that extra shine and dust-removal right before you enter the ring and your groom is too fancy to use a damn towel, there is no reason to be using this crap. Repeat after me: THERE IS NO REASON.
__________________
Oils & Conditioners:
Caution: Many oils and conditioners will darken light colored leathers. Be sure to test conditioners and oils on a hidden spot or corner.
Neatsfoot Oil. Many brands make it, most commonly Fiebing's. (http://www.doversaddlery.com/fiebings-neatsfoot-oil--8-oz/p/X1-31028/) A little bit will go a looooonnnngggggg way. IMPORTANT: NEATSFOOT OIL DARKENS LEATHER! If you have a light or medium brown, white, tan, or any color other than very dark brown/navy/black, it WILL darken it! After the leather is clean, apply with your fleece/cotton in as even a manner as you can, particularly if the oil will be darkening your leather. Neatsfoot oil, if not fully absorbed, will leave a slightly tacky residue and attract hair/dust. Apply sparingly and rub in as much as possible before applying more; if your leather is dry enough to need more than a single, light application/wipe, then you should be using a balm or my favorite Hammanol (see below). Neatsfoot oil can be found at shoe repair stores, tack stores, Mounds (in the horse section), Farm & Fleet (in the horse section), and Co-op feed stores (horse section), or of course, online. Many stores that carry leather boots/shoes will often have a section for conditioners and oils as well.
A leather balm conditioner, such as Effax Lederbalsam. (http://www.doversaddlery.com/effax-leder-balsam/p/X1-31118/) There are many types of balm-conditioners out there, just research them to find out their restorative abilities and if they leave residues. Balms just need to be rubbed in, by hand is best. Some may darken light leathers.
Stubben Hammanol (http://www.doversaddlery.com/st%C3%BCbben-hammanol/p/X1-3152/) This is hands-down THE BEST conditioner. If you've got stiff, severely-dried leather, BUY THIS. If you want your old leather to look awesomely supple and new again, BUY THIS. If you love leather and hate to see it sad, BUY THIS. I think you get the point. This stuff is amazing. It is a thick cream that needs to be massaged in with your hands. A little goes a long way. I'm not going to lie to you, it smells bad out of the tube and your hands are going to smell like it for the rest of the day. Once it absorbs into the leather, it won't smell though. If you don't rub it in enough, or if you use too much (remember, use conditioners sparingly), it will be slightly greasy and attract hair/dust. If you have an awesome tack store nearby, they might have it or be able to get it for you. Otherwise you'll have to get it online. It is ~15-18 bucks for an 8.8 oz tube, but you won't regret it. I conditioned all my saddles, boots, and dried-out/old goods many times with a single tube, so it should last you a few years.
____________
The Process:
Leather should not be left in the sun for a long time, especially during cleaning (with listed exceptions below).
First, access your leather goods. Try to brush/wipe off as much loose, dry dirt as possible with a dry toothbrush or dry sponge. If you have metal hardware/fittings that need to be cleaned, I suggest using Flitz metal polish PASTE (http://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-paste/) at this time, applying it with a toothbrush and wiping dry with paper towel(s).
I like to clean any stitching, holes, non-painted tooling, details, and around hardware/fittings before the rest of the leather. Use the toothbrush and toothpick as needed. Stitching should be kept clean and dry to keep the thread (waxed or not, though any leather stitching on non-garment-weight leather should be waxed) free of weakening dirt and mold. Same with hardware and fittings. Sometimes leather gains a green grime right around fittings/hardware, from the reaction of the dust/moisture/grime with the metal. This can be especially hard to clean if allowed to build-up, and sometimes cannot be removed completely without scratching the leather.
Dampen your sponge and begin using your leather cleaner, wiping evenly and lightly. Try not to scrub much, rather, use multiple wipes/applications of the cleaner. Scrubbing can cause dye to lift/lighten. Cream/Paste saddle soaps (in tins) should not be worked into much of a lather, while glycerin-based bars can for heavily-soiled leather. Be sure to rub soap into and out of leather pores or any hide texture (ex: buffalo hide). When clean, the leather should feel smooth and slightly squeaky at the touch; just like skin, leather has a specific feeling when it's clean and well-maintained. If there's a film of dirt still, the leather will likely feel clammy or slightly tacky. If you run a fingernail *lightly* over the leather, you shouldn't pull up and residue. Be careful if testing this way not to scratch the leather, though.
When done cleaning, it's good to use a dry cloth to buff the leather a little. This helps keep the soap from leaving a residue, and makes sure any lather-scum is removed. It also helps the leather shine.
You don't always have to condition leather after it is cleaned. If the leather is supple, well-maintained, or under light use, it probably only needs to be conditioned every other or third time it is cleaned. If the leather is used heavily, exposed to temperature variations, exposed to rugged conditions, old, or was dry before you cleaned it, then you should condition it. It is always better to use too little oil/conditioner and have to re-apply it in one sitting, then to apply too much and have to deal with excess oil/conditioner. A secret is to apply oil/conditioner outside in the sun if during the spring/summer/fall. The warmth of the sun bathes the leather and "opens" its pores.
To condition your leather with oil such as Neatsfoot oil, apply a dab of the oil to your fleece/cloth, and pat it onto your leather. Then, using your hands, rub/massage the oil into the leather. Working it in like this helps "open" the pores of the leather, allowing it to absorb the oil better. Remember that oil can darken leather, so be sure to apply it as evenly as possible or your leather could develop spots/light/dark areas.
If using a balm or cream conditioner, apply directly with your hands and massage it into the leather.
Conditioner should not have to "dry;" if after you've massaged it the leather feels greasy or saturated, you've applied too much. Your best bet is to buff the saddle. You can let it sit in a cool place out of the sun for a few hours (again, even if applying in the sun, leather should not be left in the sun for an extended period of time), then come back to it and massage it again. Otherwise, buff the extra off with a clean cloth.
Every now and again I like to condition the underside of the leather as well. This keeps that side from cracking or getting too stiff. Do not condition it too frequently, however, or your leather (especially armor-weight or meant-to-be-stiffer leather) can become too supple. Over-conditioning the underside can also weaken it in the same way putting lotion on calluses negates them (I hope that makes sense).
_________________
Weather-proofing:
I'm a traditionalist. My favorite product to weather-proof boots and other goods is Nor-V-Gen shoe paste/oil. In my opinion the paste is easier to use (less messy and easily massaged into the leather). The paste comes in a tin, whereas the oil comes in a can with an applicator-dabber (http://www.norvgen.com/) Whichever you use, it needs to be worked into the leather just like conditioner. The paste also conditions the leather a little bit.
If you use a different product for this, be sure that it does not contain silicone and allows the leather to breathe. These products also help keep your leather clean, locks in a good moisture balance, and allows it to be easily wiped down. It should be re-applied as needed, and if you know you're going to expose the leather to water, it's good to re-apply it beforehand. Especially on boots.
________
Too Stiff:
Or, the miracle guide to "curing" cheap
If your leather is overly stiff, or overly brittle (but not severely damaged), you can give it an oil "bath." The idea in this case is to saturate the leather in oil. This is also a good way to make really cheap leather into nicer, more supple leather. First, condition it with oil as you normally would, applying a small amount and rubbing it in. Cover the leather in Neatsfoot oil; it doesn't need to be in a bucket of the stuff, but you want to baste the leather (both sides) in the oil. It should drip, so you want to either place it in a tub or hang it over something to collect the oil. (Remember you need to hand-wash anything that gets oil on it and get all the oil off fabric items before they can be machine washed and especially before they go in a dryer. I.e. I don't recommend a towel. Outside on a clothesline would be ideal, especially with a little sun to help warm the leather.)
Leave the leather for a few hours. Then, massage the leather one last time, wipe as much of the excess oil off as you can, and hang it inside somewhere for the night/next day. You'll probably have to clean the leather to get the greasy, overly-saturated oil condition under control, just make sure not to use too much soap.
It'll take a while for the leather to settle into itself, just avoid conditioning it until that happens. It should become a little buttery. It won't create perfect leather, but it definitely makes a difference. Just note that this treatment can weaken leather, so it's not a good idea to use it on leather that needs to be strong or weight/load-bearing.
______
Mold:
The bane of leather. There's a difference between mildew and mold, and make sure you can tell. Mildew can be removed with most leather cleaners. Mold is a far different animal. If there is stuffing, padding, another material, another layer of leather, or a lining, you need to assess if that has been compromised by the mold. It may need further cleaning or even replacing. Mold can be treated with a 10:1 water:white (distilled) vinegar solution. Use no stronger than 3:1 water:vinegar or you could compromise the leather's PH balance significantly, or cause it to dry out. Apply the vinegar in any way necessary--wipe it with a cloth, scrub stitching/details/etc with a toothbrush, get into nooks and holes with a soaked toothpick or Q-tip. If the leather fitted with another layer (common in armor), you may need to pour the vinegar so it gets between the layers. After the mold is removed, the leather needs to be cleaned immediately. If you had to pour the solution, you'll have to pour a soapy solution as well. Condition if necessary. No not apply anything that will keep the leather from breathing. You'll need to watch the leather the next few days to see if the mold re-grows.
Severe cases of mold may need to be treated by a leather-working professional.
__________
Quick Tips:
Use a vinegar/water mixture (same as for removing mold) to remove salt stains.
Beeswax is a quick way to add shine and water-proofing to leather if you need it quickly, but it does need to be cleaned off because it doesn't allow leather to breathe. It also attracts dirt like crazy.
Silicone, found in many cheaper waxes, conditioners, and especially in all-in-ones and wipes, can damage stitching.
Mix some cream conditioner with dye (if possible) before applying it. It helps the dye absorb and the leather will feel buttery if it's not a heavy-weight. If you can't mix it, rub cream conditioner in with some extra on the surface before applying the dye. If you let the dye set in the sunlight, it'll create a wonderful, natural look.
Newly dyed leather will bleed, so don't use it with your Nice Things for a while. If it's armor that will contact your skin, put some lotion on your skin before putting it on. The lotion will help you wash any bled dye off.
Remove finishes with 10% rubbing alcohol. Do. Not. Rub. Wipe it across the leather lightly and evenly, and repeat until the finish is removed. Sometimes you can't tell until you clean the leather. Finishes often feel waxy on leather, and if you scrape lightly with a nail, you can feel the barrier of it on top of the leather. In order to properly condition or dye finished/coated leather, you need to remove the finish.
Because Neatsfoot oil darkens light leather, it's an awesome, quick way to darken up items. Apply the Neatsfoot oil to get it a little darker. It will lighten a touch when the leather "dries." Also, you can use a hair dryer on Warm (NOT Hot) immediately after applying the Neatsfoot oil to boost the darkness a little. If you're darkening leather this way, know that every time you condition your leather with the oil it will get a little darker. It's best not to rush it, but just let the color evolve naturally as the leather gets used, cleaned, and conditioned.
Questions?
Being an equestrian, I have a lot of experience cleaning, maintaining, restoring, conditioning, and fixing leather. I also have experience removing finishes, water proofing, maintaining suede, and a little bit of experience dying. I also might be able to help if anyone has questions about varieties of leather.
Start with some basics...
Leather is not meant to be exposed to a lot of water/moisture without the proper treatment to protect its pores and underside. Obviously it will get wet/damp/sweaty/etc from time to time. Especially our armor. It's okay. Let it dry before you store it. Suede should be brushed to restore its texture (old soft toothbrush works if you don't have access to a buff brush). If leather gets completely drenched, you may have to aid it (do NOT use heat) by toweling excess water. If the drenched piece is meant to be fitted (a glove, for example), you might want to wear it while it dries so it will keep its shape and fit. Note, that's a really handy way to mould leather or help gloves/shoes fit or stretch.
Leather NEEDS conditioning once in a while, or exposure to air, dust, dirt, and general use will dry it out. It'll lose suppleness and eventually the surface will crack. Once leather cracks, there's no way to fix the crack. Dead, dried skin does not heal!
In order to condition leather, you need to clean leather. (How is the leather going to absorb the oil/conditioner if the pores are filled with your sweat and grime?) A toothbrush to remove excess dry dirt, and a cloth dampened with water can work, but if you're investing hundreds in your leather goods, why not invest 20 bucks on something to clean and condition it. I've been cleaning three saddles, numerous bridles, girths, boots, half-chaps, bags, and misc. items for *years* and I've still on my second tin of leather soap, and my first quart of oil.
Suede! Suede can't use soap. There are some suede-specific soaps out there, but they tend to be expensive, and I don't know many equestrians who have liked the resulting texture from it. You aren't likely to either. Similarly, suede can't really be conditioned--though due to its nature, suede remains very supple through its lifetime if treated nicely. Suede in particular should not be exposed to harsh weather conditions. This in particular is why I personally think suede boots are the dumbest things anyone can buy. Yes, eventually it will be worn smooth, but in the meantime you can't weatherproof it, clean it beyond a damp brush. If your suede does get wet, use a soft toothbrush or buff brush to return its texture as soon as its dry or nearly-dry. Suede that gets drenched or significantly wet will never be the same in terms of texture or suppleness. (If anyone is interested, also make sure to avoid suede if you're using it in a manner where it will be rubbing against smooth or grained leather; the texture will rub off and leave a weird spackle pattern on your leather. Trust me. My nice dressage saddle can tell you a woeful tale.)
Oddly enough, cleaning and conditioning leather is not like your hair--you can clean/condition your leather goods too frequently. Overly-cleaned leather, no matter how well it is conditioned, will often become overly hard or overly supple (depending on the type of leather and its use), dried out, more susceptible to dirt buildup, and cracking. However, if you are getting your leather goods sweaty, for instance, it should ALWAYS be wiped down with a dry or very lightly-dampened cloth.
__________________________________
Cleaning for smooth or grained leathers:
The most basic cleaning supplies are cheap and easy to buy. The best tools are:
1) An old toothbrush for use on soles, metal fittings/hardware, stitching, and to scrub in holes.
2) A cheap soft sponge. The smaller the "pores" of the sponge, the better. Use dampened.
3) Toothpicks, for inserting into holes and hardware to remove any built-up grime.
4) A swatch or two of fleece or cotton fabric for buffing, polishing, and applying oil/conditioner. I keep a dedicated dry one for buffing and polishing, and one for use with my oil.
I fully recommend Fiebing Saddle Soap (http://www.doversaddlery.com/fiebing's-saddle-soap/p/X1-3122/) -- It comes as a paste-like cream in a tin. Kiwi brand makes a similar product. This type product should be applied with a dampened sponge or cloth and rubbed into the leather. Lather isn't necessary (lather often leaves a dirt film). Buff/polish when done. Can be bought at most/any shoe repair stores, tack stores, Mounds (in the horse section), Farm & Fleet (in the horse section), and Co-op feed stores (horse section), or of course, online. Online or in tack stores there are a ton of brands with similar products. Not all of them are good, so if you buy a different brand, I suggest looking at reviews to know how well it cleans, if it dries leather out, and especially if it leaves any residue.
Fiebings also makes a glycerine bar soap which I also rather like. (http://www.doversaddlery.com/glycerine-soap-bar/p/X1-3107/) I use it for my more heavily soiled tack items. Keep it in a dedicated sandwhich keeper for easy use and to prevent it drying out. This type product should be applied with a slightly more-damp sponge or cloth in multiple "sweeps," rinsing and wringing the sponge/cloth each time. Lather is good, but not a heavy lather (if it's like the lather of your shampoo you're using too much), just make sure to wipe it before applying more soap if you need it. Can be bought at most shoe repair stores, tack stores, Mounds (in the horse section), Farm & Fleet (in the horse section), and Co-op feed stores (horse section), or of course, online.
The only liquid soap I recommend using is Stubben brand's Hamanol PH-Balanced Soap. (http://www.doversaddlery.com/st%C3%BCbben-ph-balanced-soap/p/X1-3153/) The reason is because it's PH-balanced. Liquid soaps, because they're mixed right into a small bucket of water, tend to dry leather out more because you're applying more water to the leather. This liquid soap has not done that to anything I've used it on, and does not leave any residue (many others leave a tacky feeling). It is more expensive than the soaps listed above. Unless you have a nice tack store nearby, you'll likely have to buy this online.
Stay away from cleaning-and-conditioning-in-one products. It's like the whole shampoo-and-conditioner-in-one thing. Soaps and conditioners do two very different things. It'll either clean well or condition well and give the illusion of clean.
Also stay away from leather wipes. They attract dust and dirt like nothing else and only do a surface clean. Unless you're a dressage rider who needs that extra shine and dust-removal right before you enter the ring and your groom is too fancy to use a damn towel, there is no reason to be using this crap. Repeat after me: THERE IS NO REASON.
__________________
Oils & Conditioners:
Caution: Many oils and conditioners will darken light colored leathers. Be sure to test conditioners and oils on a hidden spot or corner.
Neatsfoot Oil. Many brands make it, most commonly Fiebing's. (http://www.doversaddlery.com/fiebings-neatsfoot-oil--8-oz/p/X1-31028/) A little bit will go a looooonnnngggggg way. IMPORTANT: NEATSFOOT OIL DARKENS LEATHER! If you have a light or medium brown, white, tan, or any color other than very dark brown/navy/black, it WILL darken it! After the leather is clean, apply with your fleece/cotton in as even a manner as you can, particularly if the oil will be darkening your leather. Neatsfoot oil, if not fully absorbed, will leave a slightly tacky residue and attract hair/dust. Apply sparingly and rub in as much as possible before applying more; if your leather is dry enough to need more than a single, light application/wipe, then you should be using a balm or my favorite Hammanol (see below). Neatsfoot oil can be found at shoe repair stores, tack stores, Mounds (in the horse section), Farm & Fleet (in the horse section), and Co-op feed stores (horse section), or of course, online. Many stores that carry leather boots/shoes will often have a section for conditioners and oils as well.
A leather balm conditioner, such as Effax Lederbalsam. (http://www.doversaddlery.com/effax-leder-balsam/p/X1-31118/) There are many types of balm-conditioners out there, just research them to find out their restorative abilities and if they leave residues. Balms just need to be rubbed in, by hand is best. Some may darken light leathers.
Stubben Hammanol (http://www.doversaddlery.com/st%C3%BCbben-hammanol/p/X1-3152/) This is hands-down THE BEST conditioner. If you've got stiff, severely-dried leather, BUY THIS. If you want your old leather to look awesomely supple and new again, BUY THIS. If you love leather and hate to see it sad, BUY THIS. I think you get the point. This stuff is amazing. It is a thick cream that needs to be massaged in with your hands. A little goes a long way. I'm not going to lie to you, it smells bad out of the tube and your hands are going to smell like it for the rest of the day. Once it absorbs into the leather, it won't smell though. If you don't rub it in enough, or if you use too much (remember, use conditioners sparingly), it will be slightly greasy and attract hair/dust. If you have an awesome tack store nearby, they might have it or be able to get it for you. Otherwise you'll have to get it online. It is ~15-18 bucks for an 8.8 oz tube, but you won't regret it. I conditioned all my saddles, boots, and dried-out/old goods many times with a single tube, so it should last you a few years.
____________
The Process:
Leather should not be left in the sun for a long time, especially during cleaning (with listed exceptions below).
First, access your leather goods. Try to brush/wipe off as much loose, dry dirt as possible with a dry toothbrush or dry sponge. If you have metal hardware/fittings that need to be cleaned, I suggest using Flitz metal polish PASTE (http://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-paste/) at this time, applying it with a toothbrush and wiping dry with paper towel(s).
I like to clean any stitching, holes, non-painted tooling, details, and around hardware/fittings before the rest of the leather. Use the toothbrush and toothpick as needed. Stitching should be kept clean and dry to keep the thread (waxed or not, though any leather stitching on non-garment-weight leather should be waxed) free of weakening dirt and mold. Same with hardware and fittings. Sometimes leather gains a green grime right around fittings/hardware, from the reaction of the dust/moisture/grime with the metal. This can be especially hard to clean if allowed to build-up, and sometimes cannot be removed completely without scratching the leather.
Dampen your sponge and begin using your leather cleaner, wiping evenly and lightly. Try not to scrub much, rather, use multiple wipes/applications of the cleaner. Scrubbing can cause dye to lift/lighten. Cream/Paste saddle soaps (in tins) should not be worked into much of a lather, while glycerin-based bars can for heavily-soiled leather. Be sure to rub soap into and out of leather pores or any hide texture (ex: buffalo hide). When clean, the leather should feel smooth and slightly squeaky at the touch; just like skin, leather has a specific feeling when it's clean and well-maintained. If there's a film of dirt still, the leather will likely feel clammy or slightly tacky. If you run a fingernail *lightly* over the leather, you shouldn't pull up and residue. Be careful if testing this way not to scratch the leather, though.
When done cleaning, it's good to use a dry cloth to buff the leather a little. This helps keep the soap from leaving a residue, and makes sure any lather-scum is removed. It also helps the leather shine.
You don't always have to condition leather after it is cleaned. If the leather is supple, well-maintained, or under light use, it probably only needs to be conditioned every other or third time it is cleaned. If the leather is used heavily, exposed to temperature variations, exposed to rugged conditions, old, or was dry before you cleaned it, then you should condition it. It is always better to use too little oil/conditioner and have to re-apply it in one sitting, then to apply too much and have to deal with excess oil/conditioner. A secret is to apply oil/conditioner outside in the sun if during the spring/summer/fall. The warmth of the sun bathes the leather and "opens" its pores.
To condition your leather with oil such as Neatsfoot oil, apply a dab of the oil to your fleece/cloth, and pat it onto your leather. Then, using your hands, rub/massage the oil into the leather. Working it in like this helps "open" the pores of the leather, allowing it to absorb the oil better. Remember that oil can darken leather, so be sure to apply it as evenly as possible or your leather could develop spots/light/dark areas.
If using a balm or cream conditioner, apply directly with your hands and massage it into the leather.
Conditioner should not have to "dry;" if after you've massaged it the leather feels greasy or saturated, you've applied too much. Your best bet is to buff the saddle. You can let it sit in a cool place out of the sun for a few hours (again, even if applying in the sun, leather should not be left in the sun for an extended period of time), then come back to it and massage it again. Otherwise, buff the extra off with a clean cloth.
Every now and again I like to condition the underside of the leather as well. This keeps that side from cracking or getting too stiff. Do not condition it too frequently, however, or your leather (especially armor-weight or meant-to-be-stiffer leather) can become too supple. Over-conditioning the underside can also weaken it in the same way putting lotion on calluses negates them (I hope that makes sense).
_________________
Weather-proofing:
I'm a traditionalist. My favorite product to weather-proof boots and other goods is Nor-V-Gen shoe paste/oil. In my opinion the paste is easier to use (less messy and easily massaged into the leather). The paste comes in a tin, whereas the oil comes in a can with an applicator-dabber (http://www.norvgen.com/) Whichever you use, it needs to be worked into the leather just like conditioner. The paste also conditions the leather a little bit.
If you use a different product for this, be sure that it does not contain silicone and allows the leather to breathe. These products also help keep your leather clean, locks in a good moisture balance, and allows it to be easily wiped down. It should be re-applied as needed, and if you know you're going to expose the leather to water, it's good to re-apply it beforehand. Especially on boots.
________
Too Stiff:
Or, the miracle guide to "curing" cheap
If your leather is overly stiff, or overly brittle (but not severely damaged), you can give it an oil "bath." The idea in this case is to saturate the leather in oil. This is also a good way to make really cheap leather into nicer, more supple leather. First, condition it with oil as you normally would, applying a small amount and rubbing it in. Cover the leather in Neatsfoot oil; it doesn't need to be in a bucket of the stuff, but you want to baste the leather (both sides) in the oil. It should drip, so you want to either place it in a tub or hang it over something to collect the oil. (Remember you need to hand-wash anything that gets oil on it and get all the oil off fabric items before they can be machine washed and especially before they go in a dryer. I.e. I don't recommend a towel. Outside on a clothesline would be ideal, especially with a little sun to help warm the leather.)
Leave the leather for a few hours. Then, massage the leather one last time, wipe as much of the excess oil off as you can, and hang it inside somewhere for the night/next day. You'll probably have to clean the leather to get the greasy, overly-saturated oil condition under control, just make sure not to use too much soap.
It'll take a while for the leather to settle into itself, just avoid conditioning it until that happens. It should become a little buttery. It won't create perfect leather, but it definitely makes a difference. Just note that this treatment can weaken leather, so it's not a good idea to use it on leather that needs to be strong or weight/load-bearing.
______
Mold:
The bane of leather. There's a difference between mildew and mold, and make sure you can tell. Mildew can be removed with most leather cleaners. Mold is a far different animal. If there is stuffing, padding, another material, another layer of leather, or a lining, you need to assess if that has been compromised by the mold. It may need further cleaning or even replacing. Mold can be treated with a 10:1 water:white (distilled) vinegar solution. Use no stronger than 3:1 water:vinegar or you could compromise the leather's PH balance significantly, or cause it to dry out. Apply the vinegar in any way necessary--wipe it with a cloth, scrub stitching/details/etc with a toothbrush, get into nooks and holes with a soaked toothpick or Q-tip. If the leather fitted with another layer (common in armor), you may need to pour the vinegar so it gets between the layers. After the mold is removed, the leather needs to be cleaned immediately. If you had to pour the solution, you'll have to pour a soapy solution as well. Condition if necessary. No not apply anything that will keep the leather from breathing. You'll need to watch the leather the next few days to see if the mold re-grows.
Severe cases of mold may need to be treated by a leather-working professional.
__________
Quick Tips:
Use a vinegar/water mixture (same as for removing mold) to remove salt stains.
Beeswax is a quick way to add shine and water-proofing to leather if you need it quickly, but it does need to be cleaned off because it doesn't allow leather to breathe. It also attracts dirt like crazy.
Silicone, found in many cheaper waxes, conditioners, and especially in all-in-ones and wipes, can damage stitching.
Mix some cream conditioner with dye (if possible) before applying it. It helps the dye absorb and the leather will feel buttery if it's not a heavy-weight. If you can't mix it, rub cream conditioner in with some extra on the surface before applying the dye. If you let the dye set in the sunlight, it'll create a wonderful, natural look.
Newly dyed leather will bleed, so don't use it with your Nice Things for a while. If it's armor that will contact your skin, put some lotion on your skin before putting it on. The lotion will help you wash any bled dye off.
Remove finishes with 10% rubbing alcohol. Do. Not. Rub. Wipe it across the leather lightly and evenly, and repeat until the finish is removed. Sometimes you can't tell until you clean the leather. Finishes often feel waxy on leather, and if you scrape lightly with a nail, you can feel the barrier of it on top of the leather. In order to properly condition or dye finished/coated leather, you need to remove the finish.
Because Neatsfoot oil darkens light leather, it's an awesome, quick way to darken up items. Apply the Neatsfoot oil to get it a little darker. It will lighten a touch when the leather "dries." Also, you can use a hair dryer on Warm (NOT Hot) immediately after applying the Neatsfoot oil to boost the darkness a little. If you're darkening leather this way, know that every time you condition your leather with the oil it will get a little darker. It's best not to rush it, but just let the color evolve naturally as the leather gets used, cleaned, and conditioned.
Questions?